Disney, Move Over!

Disney theme parks are known for quality, impressive presentations that spare no detail (for instance, its African savanna). However, from what we've seen this past week, Mother Nature has Disney beat hands down.

We spent four days at Big Bend National Park, in the south of Texas, a park not familiar to most east-coasters. The name "Big Bend" comes from the 90-degree angle made by the Rio Grande River, creating a kink in the map of Texas. All I can say is, Big Bend was SUBLIME. The park is remote, huge (800,000 acres), and included several types of terrain: desert, mountains and river. At first, the desert seemed like an endless and boring expanse, almost like a moonscape. But we came to appreciate the subtle arty colors, variety & adaptability of cacti and other native plants, and especially - the tranquility. Very zen. We were in awe. Even pictures don't do justice to the beauty and serenity.

The Boquillas Canyon, sculpted eons ago by the Rio Grande, has nearly straight-up vertical walls, making humans feel tiny. Nearby, the Sierra del Carmen mountains frame the park on one side. They are majestic and appear “painted" with yellow and pink tones.

The southern edge of Big Bend Park follows the Rio Grande River, which is surprisingly narrow. Mexico is right across the strip of water. Legally, there is no contact allowed in Big Bend between the two nations. However, on the American-side, Mexicans leave small groupings of handcrafts on the walking trails, hoping you'll buy something (leaving your payment in a jar via the honor system). One day we saw a Mexican man cross the river on horseback, count his crafts, shout the inventory numbers to a buddy across the river, then quickly re-cross the river to Mexico (much to the reluctance of his horse). Before 9-11, there was a healthy interaction between the two countries, and the Mexicans near Big Bend made a decent living from tourism. Things are quite different now, with the Mexicans struggling to manage. It seems a shame.

One day we drove to "Hot Springs," a remote spot in the Big Bend desert, the site of an early-1900's resort, complete with motel, shop, and post office. All that remains now are the shells of the buildings, including the "hot tub" in the former bathhouse. We enjoyed soaking in the warm water while taking in the sun and views of the Rio Grande. The following day a Park Ranger led us on a hike in the Chisos Mountains section of the park. We learned about the native plants and saw amazing, majestic rock formations.

Wildlife sightings included the perky roadrunner, a coyote (who was surprisingly nonchalant about people being nearby) and our favorite: the javelina, a pig-like bristly character, dark in color and scruffy. Amusing to look at! Javelinas aren't easy to find. Bob noticed a few of them on the side of the road, mistaking them for rocks from a distance.

We hated to leave Big Bend, but it was time to continue on. Our next stop was Fort Davis, Texas. The town is named for an 1800's frontier military post, built primarily to protect migrating travelers from the Comanches and Apaches. The fort includes restored barracks, a string of officers' houses, and stable/corral areas.

After touring Fort Davis we parked our motor home at a dude ranch! Although we were the only dudes there (it's the off-season), we appreciated the charming old-fashioned dining room, rodeo arena, and taking a walk along fields where cattle and horses were grazing.

After three weeks in Texas, we’ve crossed into New Mexico (our 18th state and a new time zone). We stopped at the famous Carlsbad Caverns, not expecting to be impressed, but were. The main cavern, 800 feet below ground, is huge (8 acres) and well lit. You feel as though you've arrived in a Disney-esque fairyland! It took about 45 minutes to walk the 1.25 mile curvy path around the cavern perimeter, past fascinating shapes. All the white stalactites seemed almost like winter holiday icicles.

I’m writing this from Roswell, New Mexico, famous for its aliens; we met a couple of them, who wished us a good Christmas. Another Disney-esque fantasy experience.

Speaking of Christmas, we send our good wishes to all of you for a happy and healthy holiday.

Love, Patty