Zig-zagging Up The Pacific Coast

It seems like an eternity, but a week ago we passed through Napa Valley on our way north from Sacramento. We’d been to Napa years ago and ridden the (then) controversial wine train, but had forgotten just how beautiful wine country is. The rolling vineyards are serene and lush. We participated in the requisite wine tasting and were reminded of Long Island’s wineries, where we used to enjoy weekend samplings of fine varietals.

Not to be overshadowed by wine, beer was included on the next day’s agenda. Is there a pattern emerging here? We toured the boutique Anderson Valley Brewery and learned the intricacies of the brewing process. For instance, yeast suds overflow onto the floor of the plant, looking like something from a science-fiction movie “The Thing That Ate Napa”. Leftover malt and hops sludge is picked up by local farmers to use as feed for pigs or fertilizer. The brewery tour was followed by a tasting of several varieties of beer. Beer is not my favorite beverage, but I enjoyed it nonetheless and could discern the gradations of bitterness and heaviness.

In the midst of wine country we overnighted in upscale Healdsburg. Its quiet, green central square, with pathways and benches, surrounded by shops and eateries, reminded us in character of Antigua, Guatemala, but with a decidedly American feel.

Our next stop was back on the coast in Mendocino, a charming oceanfront town with architecture reminiscent of New England. Thankfully, there are no chains here, just one-off boutiques and inviting restaurants. Walking paths lure you to the edge of the seaside cliffs, where in years past, “slides” (ramps) used gravity to move lumber from town to ships waiting below. In the late 1800’s the fishing industry was also prominent in this area, but now whale-watching tourism has replaced that business.

Redwood country was our next destination. The “Avenue of the Giants” took us through 31 miles of these soaring, magnificent trees. They let in so little sunlight that it was COLD when we got out of the car! The Sequoias, unique to the northwest, can live for as many as 2000 years, with a height of more than 350 feet and roots that grow horizontally about 200 feet only 4-6 feet below the surface. In the 1800’s the lumber industry reigned in this region, but by the 1920’s logging had ravaged most of the redwood forests. We visited two “company towns”, Scotia and Samoa, where the lumber mill was the sole employer, and owned everything, including houses, stores, and hospitals. Both towns are struggling now to adapt to today’s economy. In Samoa we visited the Cookhouse restaurant, former dining hall of the lumber mill employees, with long family-style tables, red-checked table covers, large, hearty meals and a simple, yet cozy atmosphere.

After eight weeks, California sure had begun to feel like home! However, we crossed into Oregon yesterday and we’ve adjusted easily. The spectacular Oregon coast rivals, maybe even exceeds, California’s. At every bend of Highway 101 our breath was taken away again and again by the sight of churning waves crashing onto the rugged, steep coast, Redwoods soaring to the sky or regal Elks patrolling the fields. Oregon has an abundance of state parks along the Pacific shoreline. Our first night we stayed at Harris Beach Park, on a cliff, with magnificent ocean vistas. We spent the second night at wooded Beverly Beach Park, where our campsite was just a short walk from the pristine beach. One difference between the California and Oregon state parks was immediately evident. In California, fees have been raised dramatically in response to the state’s fiscal crisis and attendance is accordingly down. In Oregon fees are more reasonable and the traffic noticeably greater. Perhaps this will get us ready for the crowds in the National Parks this summer!